Happy 4th of July!

Okay, it is currently 10:00 PM on the night of the 4th of July and we are both missing good 'ole America and all of you! (We heard some fireworks a few minutes ago and both got so excited!) Our 2-day bus to Srinagar (in the Kashmir Valley) leaves at 6:00 AM sharp and we've arranged for a 5:00 AM taxi to pick us up from our guesthouse. Yes, we have got our headscarves ready...

After being here for the past 17 days, we will be sad to say goodbye to Ladakh and all of the friends we've made during our stay in Changspa at the Goba Guesthouse. We've had a few really great interviews in Leh with the folks who run the NGOs here (a special thanks to SECMOL, The Women's Alliance, and The Ecology Center), more than a few really great meals (thanks to Dawa at Goba and all of our Nepali cooks and bakers), and we've made some incredible (and, hopefully, lasting) friendships.

Again, we don't know what the Internet situation will be in Srinagar, so please don't be alarmed if you don't hear from us for a week or so -- we'll probably be soaking up some rays on our houseboat on Dal Lake or interviewing the state's chief pollution officer or buying saffron or something.

Lot's of love to all of you and to the beautiful U.S.A.

xo, Jeni